Sunday Nov. 26, 1995
SPICING UP THE MELTING POT

They Speak Spanish look Asian and feel at home in Gardena
By Lisa Plendl

Silvia Cam speaks with her hands, her arms, her eyebrows and a little shrug that says, “What’s to be done about it?” Her expressive gaze and emotional flair are classically Latin — a little unexpected from someone who appears to be Chinese. “Customers come into our shop and say, ‘you look Chinese but you speak Spanish!’ “Said Cam, who operates Jimmy’s Optical shop in Gardena with her husband. “We have to explain it so much in life — every time we open our mouths,” she laughed. “The whole explanation takes minutes of your life. You think about making up stories about it after a while.” The couple is among an apparently growing number of Asian-Peruvians settling in the Gardena area because of greater job opportunities, family ties and a cultural connection with the city’s large Asian-American population. Both came during the 1970s, when life in the small South American country was restricted by a repressive government. Many natives left for greener pastures. But a second wave of migration may have been touched oft’ by Peruvian President Alberto Fujimori, of Japanese extraction, who heads the country’s relatively new democracy. Since his election in 1990, Fujimori has opened the country’s doors, giving natives freer access to travel and relocate. Some seek relief from the t percent unemployment rate in Peru. “In the past five or six years, we’ve seen a lot more Peruvians and Asian-Peruvians coming here,” Silvia Cam said.

Historical ties

The link between the East and Peru began around the time of World War I. Like the United States in the late 19th century, Peru was looking for workers to build Its railroads, roads and bridges. And like earlier generations, thousands of Japanese and Chinese natives made the 10,000-mile journey across the Pacific, this time to South America and Peru. Two generations later, they comprise Peru’s largest minority groups outside of those of European lineage. The majority of the country’s Inhabitants are either native Indian or a mixture of European and native Indian. The Asian immigrants taught their children to speak Spanish. Most learned to speak Japanese or Peru was looking for workers build its railroads, roads and bridges. And like earlier generations, thousands of Japanese and Chinese natives made the 10,000-mile journey across the Pacific, this time to South America and Peru. Two generations later, they comprise Peru’s largest minority groups outside of those of European lineage. The majority of the country’s inhabitants are either native Indian or a mixture of European and native Indian. The Asian immigrants taught their children to speak Spanish. Most learned to speak Japanese or the Chinese dialect of their heritage only as a second language.  “I go to Marukai or Yaohan (Japanese markets) and there’s always (shoppers) who look Asian speaking Spanish. You think, ‘An Asian speaking Spanish? Must be Peruvian,’” said Jimmy Cam, who settled in the United States after attending college in Minnesota.

Merchant classes

Many Asian-Peruvians who immigrate to Los Angeles come from Peru’s middle- to upper-middle merchant classes. So it’s not surprising they often open businesses, the Cams said. “What I see lately is that they’re opening restaurants. There are a lot of them now,” said Rosario Caparo, past president of the Peruvian Chamber of Commerce in Los Angeles. “I think maybe they can have more opportunities because it’s a big city. Probably you will find some in San Francisco and New York, as well.” The Peruvian Consulate in Los Angeles gives an official estimate of 10,000 Peruvians in Southern California. But the actual number may be closer to 40,000, a spokesman said. No official count of Chinese- and Japanese-Peruvians exists. But Luis Tsuzaki, of the Peruvian Nisei Association in Los Angeles, estimates 500 families live in Southern California.

Number increases

Locals estimate that perhaps 100 or so live in Gardena, many of them drawn by the city’s large Japanese-American population. “And the number increases every year,” Tsuzaki said. German Yoshimura, who came to America 15 years ago, manages the Inoue Travel Service in Gardena. His family owns the agency and others in Japan and Peru. Los Angeles is a stopover for Peruvians of Japanese extraction traveling to Japan seeking work, he said. And sometimes they decide to stay. “Los Angeles is like a bridge for people,” said Yoshimura, whose parents migrated to Peru from Japan in about 1920.

Discrimination at home

Although things have been much better for Asian-Peruvians since Fujimori took office, discrimination is a problem that may prod some to migrate. “In Peru, you’re still not a Peruvian if you look Chinese. And you go to Hong Kong and they don’t consider you to be Chinese because you speak Spanish,” Silvia Cam said. “But here it’s a melting pot. You feel the most comfortable here.” The seemingly unlikely blend of Latin and Asian cultures turns heads in Gardena. Asian-Americans and Latinos are often the most befuddled. Gardena resident Aileen Araki, who is Japanese-American, often rubs elbows with Asian-Peruvians at local markets. Her initial reaction was fascination. “My first thought was, ‘Why are these Asian people speaking Spanish?’ “She said, “It’s really interesting. And then all my boy’s little girlfriends in pre-kindergarten turned out to be Japanese-Peruvian.” Small slices of Asian-Peruvian culture are springing up. Of five Peruvian restaurants operating in Gardena, one specializes in the countries Asian-Influenced delicacies. Jorge and Javier Chan opened El Rocoto about 11⁄2 years ago. Now, it’s often difficult get a seat at the eatery at Normandie Avenue and Artesia Boulevard where diners are treated to a sophisticated offering of shrimp, poultry and meat dishes combining Peruvian traditions with rice and other Asian accoutrements.

Unique blend of food

Peruvian food is already a cosmopolitan blend of Italian, Spanish, Portuguese and West African flavors, with garlic, cilantro, onions, tomatoes, chili powder and dry peppers playing key roles. “People say it’s unique,” Jorge Chan said. “It’s spicy. But it’s totally different than Mexican.” The Chan brothers came to Los Angeles about six years ago, leaving behind the repressive government still Intact before Fujimori took over. The standing-room only atmosphere at lunch time is a signature of their mosses “I love it,” said Peruvian native Mili Del Pino, chewing down on popular steak dish “I’m here almost everyday.” Del Pino who isn’t of Asian extraction, said life is always Interesting with Peruvians. “And for being Asian, they’re very blunt,” she said c the country’s Asian population. “They look and (may) speak Asian, but you get them angry and the Latino comes out of them”