SOUTH BAY EXTRA

August 1997
 
Peruvian Gold:

El Rocoto a tangy twist on mariscos, saltados
By Jamie Douglas
Free lance writer

Two long perogola-like structures run the entire length of the dining room at El Rocoto in Gardena. Handmade woolen hangings in traditional muted shades adorn the walls. There are two intriguing retablos, those charming little scenes in boxes that were once used by missionaries to illustrate the fine points of Christianity. Those displayed here are truly works, of art.
   
The menu, too, is a work of art if this is your first experience with Peruvian cuisine; you’ve come to the light place. The food is every bit as good as it sounds and there are 78 tantalizing Selections which to choose. It’s an excellent, varied menu, and prices are refreshingly low. Most entrées are about $8.

You couldn’t do better than the gorgeous paella criolla de pollo, $7.50, each grain of rice stained a deep gold by saffron, the world’s most expensive spice. Garnished with thin, pale slices of lemon and a wedge of lime, the rice is colorfully studded with tiny cubes of carrot, peas, cilantro, chunks of Juicy chicken and fresh tomato, a lovely touch.

The lime in your plate is not just for show. Squeeze it over your paella to make everything taste better. It was particularly effective on the chicken.
   
Once you’re acquainted with Peruvian food, it’s hard to pass up your favorites; the ceviche supposedly a Peruvian original certainly tempted me; and I am mad about papa a la Huancaina the creamiest potato salad in the world. Everybody likes saltados, a standard on every Peruvian menu.

Saltado means “Jumping,” and you can be sure that every ingredient skitters in the pan. The french would call this a sauté,. And it would be a stir-fry in China. Saltado de mariscos, $8, is packed with Irresistible seafood. The mussels are still in the shell, and there are rings of squid, shrimp and surprisingly tender octopus, onions, tomatoes and French fries. Thin, boneless chicken is wrapped around pork, shrimp and asparagus. It’s as delicious as it sounds (the melding of flavors is incredible), and the sauce, pepped up with oyster sauce, was divine.

All of the vegetables in this dish had been beautifully cooked so that they held their flavor, and they were so pretty. There were bright strips of red and green pepper,bok Choy, shiny snow peas, onion and celery.

Vegetarians have not been forgotten at El Rocoto. They have the tempting options, a chaufa, a tallarin and a saltado, each priced at $6.50. There are also two special entrees that are meant to serve two people, and both are bargains. Jalea, $14, is an extravaganza of deep-fried seafood while Taipa, $9.50, is a medley of Chinese goodies, including quail eggs and shitake mushrooms. Peruvian cuisine is the band wagon nobody wants to miss, and, it stops every day at charming El Rocoto.